July 21. Day 24 Walking.

Summary: Ryphusan to Granmo Camping through the Vinstradalen (Vinstra Valley), and then back about 1.5 km to where I missed a sign to redo the last kms along the trail instead of on the trail beside the highway. 20.8 km, 250 m elevation gain.

My hands and feet were tired (stiff) this morning but I had no aches or soreness during the night or in the morning. It’s curious about the fatigue in my hands…from holding and using the walking poles? I felt it earlier during the adventure as well, but not every day.

Today, we walked without the full weight of our bags as we are staying at the same cabin last night and tonight.

The taxi came to get us at 10 am to bring us back to Ryphusan, where it collected us from yesterday. The ride was 700 Nok one way but worth it. There is a rustic shelter at Ryphusan, but I am so grateful for a warm bed and warm shower especially yesterday after the rain, the heavy duty uphill workouts and then the significantly cold wind. I used the warm water of the shower last night to bring up my body temperature again as I was quite cold.

Our little cabin also has heated floors in both the bathroom and the small suite. Very comfortable.

The only regular discomfort I’ve had is physical, and even that has been mild. And certainly some emotional discomforts present when I think about my family or friends who are in pain, or when uncomfortable or embarrassing memories arise or thoughts about the future of my income sources. For the most part, I’m able to remain present with this adventure. I’ve been doing loving kindness mantras on my way up the hills, and focusing on those I know of who are struggling.

“May you be strong and healthy. May you be happy. May you be free from pain and suffering.”

Loving kindness mantra

Yesterday, I felt myself getting angry with the wind; it was so strong and persistent that it hurt my nostrils to breathe. I had to cover my nose with my hand sometimes to give my nose a break. The wind whipped my backpack straps against my face a few times after I put the bag back on following a break, and I found myself angry at the wind. As though getting angry would make it change.

When the taxi dropped us off, the zone had no signal so I couldn’t pay. After some efforts, we agreed I would send payment when we got into range.

The older taxi driver, from Oppdal, the region known for lamb, told Chin-Yu that he doesn’t eat lamb because he helped to deliver some as a youth and it had impacted him. I can imagine.

Today, I saw a little grey sheep with a dangling broken leg limping along. Baaaa, it called out. Tears of compassion filled my eyes. It really sucks to watch others suffer and not be able to help.

10:30 start walking

4.5 km, 11:50 spring water and snack

7.4 km 12:40 lunch by the river

8.3 km start on a forested trail

11.9 km St. Mikaelskapell (St. Michael’s Chapel) Ink explosion! We have pilgrim passports that we get stamped at various churches and pilgrim hotels/guest houses. The one at St. Mikaelskapell made a bit of a scene in my book and on my hands.

The small pilgrimage chapel was built by “a group of local idealists with little money and great courage” (pilegrimsleden.no).

“Just northwest of the chapel is the burial ground on Rise, a burial ground from the Viking Age. The most famous find from here is the Rise Angel. It is a bronze figure of the archangel Michael, made in Ireland in the 7-800s. It may have previously adorned a reliquary. The angel was found in the burial ground in the 19th century and has now given its name to the chapel – St. Michael’s Chapel” (pilegrimsleden.no).

Quiet roads and then last part to Granmo on the E6.

Ooops! Not quite! When I got back to the cabin, Chin-Yu, who is always in front of me, wasn’t there yet. “Weird,” I thought, “but she’ll be back soon.” Sure enough, she came within five minutes of my arrival and told me I had taken the “shortcut” and had missed a sign and some good views. She had tried to call me but for multiple reasons of peace and tranquility, I don’t keep my phone on while I’m walking.

Anyway, the trail I was meant to take ran about 400m up from the highway and I decided to walk back to retrace where I shut my brain off and missed the sign. I redid the proper trail. It took me just over an hour and I got in a few extra kilometres.

The actual trail was beautiful, much nicer than the highway trail, and I’m happy my error was pointed out and that I had an opportunity to go back and follow the correct trail.

Thank you for this day.